Difference between revisions of "User:Saul/3d printer"

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m (→‎Useful Links)
m (→‎Hardware)
 
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== Hardware ==
 
== Hardware ==
 +
=== Mechanical Testing ===
 +
https://engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/
 
=== Nozzles ===
 
=== Nozzles ===
 
A good nozzle is required for accurate printing, smaller sizes have neater finishes but take longer, where big nozzles do it quicker but the layers are more visible.<br>
 
A good nozzle is required for accurate printing, smaller sizes have neater finishes but take longer, where big nozzles do it quicker but the layers are more visible.<br>
Line 7: Line 9:
 
* E3D Volcano
 
* E3D Volcano
 
* E3D V6
 
* E3D V6
 +
=== Plastic ===
 +
[https://www.aliexpress.com/item/CREOZONE-Top-Quality-Brand-3D-Printer-Filament-1-75-1KG-PLA-ABS-Wood-TPU-Plastic-Filament/32830591502.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.3.4546798aL28stj&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10152_10151_10065_10344_10068_10547_10342_10343_10340_10548_10341_5012612_10696_5012512_10084_10083_10618_10307_5012812_10059_100031_10103_5012712_10624_10623_10622_10621_10620,searchweb201603_2,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=ffdee28a-e33c-467e-bdd7-f57696d04059-0&algo_pvid=ffdee28a-e33c-467e-bdd7-f57696d04059&priceBeautifyAB=0 PLA, ABS, TPU, TPEG and composite filaments - aliexpress.]
 +
=== OctoPi ===
 +
You can set the Raspberry Pi up with a 3d printer via OctoPi to allow video streaming and wireless control see [https://octoprint.org here].<br>
 +
The pi would not connect to the network with the wifi stick and the default instructions - I had to change my configuration to the following:
 +
<source>
 +
network={
 +
ssid="xxxxxxx"
 +
psk="pass"
 +
proto=RSN
 +
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
 +
pairwise=CCMP TKIP
 +
auth_alg=OPEN
 +
}
 +
</source>
 +
 
== Software ==
 
== Software ==
−
=== Printrun/Pronterface ===
+
=== Slicers ===
−
Printrun/Pronterface is a good program to connect to the printer and control it from your computer.
+
Slicers are programs that convert a model into printable gcode.
−
=== Slic3r ===
+
==== Slic3r ====
 
Slic3r is a program for imported models and configuring them for the printer and exporting the print-ready gcode.<br>
 
Slic3r is a program for imported models and configuring them for the printer and exporting the print-ready gcode.<br>
−
==== Fill Settings ====
+
===== Fill Settings =====
 
My recommended fill settings are:
 
My recommended fill settings are:
 
* Wall layers: 3 (tested to be the apex for strength)
 
* Wall layers: 3 (tested to be the apex for strength)
Line 19: Line 37:
 
* Fill percentage: >30% (anything less is just too weak)
 
* Fill percentage: >30% (anything less is just too weak)
 
* Fill speed: '''?'''
 
* Fill speed: '''?'''
 +
 +
==== Cura ====
 +
==== Simplify3D ====
 +
=== Printrun/Pronterface ===
 +
Printrun/Pronterface is a good program to connect to the printer and control it from your computer.
  
 
==== Retraction Settings ====
 
==== Retraction Settings ====
 
Retraction is where the extruder runs in reverse to prevent plastic coming out when it is moving, this prevents issues like stringing.
 
Retraction is where the extruder runs in reverse to prevent plastic coming out when it is moving, this prevents issues like stringing.
 +
 +
== Calibration ==
 +
=== Extruder Steps ===
 +
* Set nozzle temperature to 190deg (PLA)
 +
* Mark the filament before it goes into the feeder around 150mm from the feeder
 +
* Extrude 100mm of plastic
 +
* Measure the difference to work out how much the printer used
 +
* calculate what to set the steps to using: <source>CURRENT_STEPS * 100 / PRINTED_PLASTIC</source>
 +
 +
My extruder steps is: 104.4
 +
 +
=== Extruder Multiplier ===
 +
* Print a test cube a single perimter (no infill) of the nozzle diameter
 +
* Measure the walls
 +
* work out the multiplier using: <source>NOZZLE_WIDTH / PRINTED_WIDTH</source>
 +
 +
My extrusion multiplier is: 0.91
 +
 
== TODO ==
 
== TODO ==
 +
=== Without Auto-leveling ===
 
Try connecting THE 2 motors in series and adding 2 more on the other sides in series (to support the entire bed) and reduce stepper distance to account for the increased load.
 
Try connecting THE 2 motors in series and adding 2 more on the other sides in series (to support the entire bed) and reduce stepper distance to account for the increased load.
 +
 +
=== With Auto-leveling ===
 +
The two steppers must be adjacent to stop the board flexing.
 +
 
== Useful Links ==
 
== Useful Links ==
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_P7ZhnXc34 3 z-axis motor bed]
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_P7ZhnXc34 3 z-axis motor bed]
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF66jms3ruQ auto level bed]
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZF66jms3ruQ auto level bed]
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFkCa2scdyo flash marlin]
 
*[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFkCa2scdyo flash marlin]
 +
*[https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2018/08/corexy-mechanism-layout-and-belt.html?m=1]
 +
 
[[Category:Hardware]]
 
[[Category:Hardware]]

Latest revision as of 00:33, 31 December 2020

This page contains my notes on 3d printing.

Hardware

Mechanical Testing

https://engineerdog.com/2015/09/02/mechanical-testing-3d-printed-parts-results-and-recommendations/

Nozzles

A good nozzle is required for accurate printing, smaller sizes have neater finishes but take longer, where big nozzles do it quicker but the layers are more visible.
Here are some nozzles people seem to recommend:

  • E3D Volcano
  • E3D V6

Plastic

PLA, ABS, TPU, TPEG and composite filaments - aliexpress.

OctoPi

You can set the Raspberry Pi up with a 3d printer via OctoPi to allow video streaming and wireless control see here.
The pi would not connect to the network with the wifi stick and the default instructions - I had to change my configuration to the following: 

network={
	ssid="xxxxxxx"
	psk="pass"
	proto=RSN
	key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
	pairwise=CCMP TKIP
	auth_alg=OPEN
}

Software

Slicers

Slicers are programs that convert a model into printable gcode.

Slic3r

Slic3r is a program for imported models and configuring them for the printer and exporting the print-ready gcode.

Fill Settings

My recommended fill settings are:

  • Wall layers: 3 (tested to be the apex for strength)
  • Top and bottom layers: 5 (I have found the default of 3 not quite enough in most circumstances)
  • Fill type: Rectlinear (tested to be the strongest)
  • Fill percentage: >30% (anything less is just too weak)
  • Fill speed: ?

Cura

Simplify3D

Printrun/Pronterface

Printrun/Pronterface is a good program to connect to the printer and control it from your computer.

Retraction Settings

Retraction is where the extruder runs in reverse to prevent plastic coming out when it is moving, this prevents issues like stringing.

Calibration

Extruder Steps

  • Set nozzle temperature to 190deg (PLA)
  • Mark the filament before it goes into the feeder around 150mm from the feeder
  • Extrude 100mm of plastic
  • Measure the difference to work out how much the printer used
  • calculate what to set the steps to using: 
    CURRENT_STEPS * 100 / PRINTED_PLASTIC

My extruder steps is: 104.4

Extruder Multiplier

  • Print a test cube a single perimter (no infill) of the nozzle diameter
  • Measure the walls
  • work out the multiplier using: 
    NOZZLE_WIDTH / PRINTED_WIDTH

My extrusion multiplier is: 0.91

TODO

Without Auto-leveling

Try connecting THE 2 motors in series and adding 2 more on the other sides in series (to support the entire bed) and reduce stepper distance to account for the increased load.

With Auto-leveling

The two steppers must be adjacent to stop the board flexing.

Useful Links

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