Difference between revisions of "User:Saul/soarer"
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An extremely useful doc for the wiring to the ecu can be found [http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer%20Engine%20Wiring here].<br> | An extremely useful doc for the wiring to the ecu can be found [http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/47216384/1JZ-GTE%20JZZ30%20Soarer%20Engine%20Wiring here].<br> | ||
Main ecu plugs: | Main ecu plugs: | ||
| + | <div style="display: block;"> | ||
| + | <div style="display: inline-block; padding: 10px;"> | ||
== C88 == | == C88 == | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 83: | Line 85: | ||
| 34 || E01 || White/Black | | 34 || E01 || White/Black | ||
|} | |} | ||
| + | </div> | ||
| + | <div style="display: inline-block; padding: 10px;"> | ||
== C84 == | == C84 == | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 132: | Line 136: | ||
| 22 || E2 || Brown | | 22 || E2 || Brown | ||
|} | |} | ||
| − | + | </div> | |
| + | <div style="display: inline-block; padding: 10px;"> | ||
== C85 == | == C85 == | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 170: | Line 175: | ||
| 16 || E1 || Brown | | 16 || E1 || Brown | ||
|} | |} | ||
| + | </div> | ||
| + | <div style="display: inline-block; padding: 10px;"> | ||
== C86 == | == C86 == | ||
{| class="wikitable" | {| class="wikitable" | ||
| Line 231: | Line 238: | ||
| 28 || ELS || Red/Yellow | | 28 || ELS || Red/Yellow | ||
|} | |} | ||
| + | </div> | ||
| + | </div> | ||
| − | = Speedometer | + | <div style="display: block;"> |
| + | = Speedometer = | ||
== Wiring == | == Wiring == | ||
=== Speed Sensor === | === Speed Sensor === | ||
| Line 279: | Line 289: | ||
* Check the voltage between the blue/red wire going into the dash has voltage between it and ground when the key is turned on and the wheels are spinning. | * Check the voltage between the blue/red wire going into the dash has voltage between it and ground when the key is turned on and the wheels are spinning. | ||
If none of these are the issue it is likely that the dash is faulty. | If none of these are the issue it is likely that the dash is faulty. | ||
| + | </div> | ||
| + | [[Category:Cars]] | ||
Latest revision as of 04:18, 10 August 2018
These are my notes for the Toyota Soarer.
Contents
Specifications
The Soarer that I have been working on has the following specifications:
- Right side drive
- Factory manual
- 1JZ Motor
- R154 Gearbox
Ecu wiring
An extremely useful doc for the wiring to the ecu can be found here.
Main ecu plugs:
C88
| Pin # | Symbol | Color (Primary/Stripe) |
| 1 | / | / |
| 2 | / | / |
| 3 | HT | Red/Blue |
| 4 | KNK2 | (See-through copper) |
| 5 | KNK1 | (See-through copper) |
| 6 | / | / |
| 7 | EVAP | Green/Black |
| 8 | #30 | Black |
| 9 | #20 | Black/Yellow |
| 10 | #10 | Yellow |
| 11 | S1 | ? |
| 12 | IGF | Red/Yellow |
| 13 | STA | Black/White |
| 14 | NSW | ? |
| 15 | IGT3 | Blue/Black |
| 16 | IGT2 | Red/Blue |
| 17 | S2 | ? |
| 18 | / | / |
| 19 | VF | Grey/Yellow |
| 20 | ISCV4 | Blue/White |
| 21 | ISCV3 | Green/Yellow |
| 22 | ISCV2 | Green/Black |
| 23 | ISCV1 | Purple/Red |
| 24 | IGT1 | Red/White |
| 25 | / | / |
| 26 | IGT4 | Blue/White |
| 27 | S3 | ? |
| 28 | E11 | Brown |
| 29 | IGT6 | Red/Black |
| 30 | IGT5 | Red/Green |
| 31 | IDL2 | Brown |
| 32 | IDL1 | Red |
| 33 | EO2 | White/Black |
| 34 | E01 | White/Black |
C84
| Pin # | Symbol | Color (Primary/Stripe) |
| 1 | VCC | Blue/Red |
| 2 | / | / |
| 3 | NCO- | ? |
| 4 | SP2- | ? |
| 5 | NE | Blue/Green |
| 6 | NE- | Blue/Yellow |
| 7 | VTA1 | Yellow |
| 8 | PIM | Green/Black |
| 9 | SP2+ | ? |
| 10 | G1 | Orange |
| 11 | G1- | White |
| 12 | VTA2 | Blue/Red |
| 13 | OX1 | White |
| 14 | THA | Yellow/Black |
| 15 | NCO+ | ? |
| 16 | G2 | Orange/Blue |
| 17 | G2- | White/Blue |
| 18 | / | / |
| 19 | / | / |
| 20 | THW | Green |
| 21 | / | / |
| 22 | E2 | Brown |
C85
| Pin # | Symbol | Color (Primary/Stripe) |
| 1 | NEO | ? |
| 2 | M-REL | Black/Red |
| 3 | W | Blue/Yellow |
| 4 | FPC | Red/Green |
| 5 | TE1 | Green |
| 6 | TR | ? |
| 7 | VTO1 | ? |
| 8 | / | / |
| 9 | / | / |
| 10 | DI | Pink |
| 11 | VTO2 | ? |
| 12 | / | / |
| 13 | / | / |
| 14 | ABS | Red/Yellow |
| 15 | / | / |
| 16 | E1 | Brown |
C86
| Pin # | Symbol | Color (Primary/Stripe) |
| 1 | TT | ? |
| 2 | L | ? |
| 3 | P | ? |
| 4 | / | / |
| 5 | ACMG | White |
| 6 | OD2 | ? |
| 7 | OD1 | ? |
| 8 | EGW | White/Red |
| 9 | IGSW | Black/Orange |
| 10 | 2 | ? |
| 11 | TE2 | Green/Yellow |
| 12 | SP1 | Pink |
| 13 | CCO | Green |
| 14 | BATT | Black/Yellow |
| 15 | / | / |
| 16 | / | / |
| 17 | L3 | ? |
| 18 | L2 | ? |
| 19 | L1 | ? |
| 20 | A/C | Blue/Red |
| 21 | / | / |
| 22 | +B | Black/Red |
| 23 | +B1 | Black/Red |
| 24 | / | / |
| 25 | STP | Green/White |
| 26 | / | / |
| 27 | / | / |
| 28 | ELS | Red/Yellow |
Speedometer
Wiring
Speed Sensor
The speed sensor is located on the right rear side of the gearbox.
The sensor will not operate without 12v power.
The speed sensor has 3 wires labeled 1, 2 and 3.
- This wire gets 12v feed to it when the key turns.
- This wire connects to ground.
- This wire is the signal output - square wave 4 cycles per wheel turn pulsing from 0v to 12v.
Dash
The 3rd wire from the speed sensor goes into the loom up near the engine through the fire wall down underneath the glovebox and through to behind the dash.
This 3rd wire was blue with a red stripe.
The wire connects to the back of the digital dash - this is where it gets converted to the speed.
The dash has a pink wire the comes out and goes to the main ecu.
Ecu
The ecu uses the pink wire (speed signal from the dash) for traction control.
Be careful as there are two similar pink wires going to the main ecu one is for the fuel pump which appears to output around 12v when the fuel pump is running.
The pink wire (speed signal) may not be needed on some after market ecu's.
Debugging
The following steps may be helpful when debugging a speedometer problem:
Speed Sensor
First check if the speed sensor works:
Check Reading
Unplug the sensor at the back right of the gearbox.
Connect small alligator clips to each pin on the sensor - make sure they are insulated and not touching each other!
Look at the plug that you pulled off to determine what pin is what.
Connect 12v power to the pin labeled "1".
Connect the ground and the negative side of the multimeter to the middle pin - "2".
Connect the positive side of the multimeter to the last pin - "3".
Spin the rear wheels of the car and see if you get a voltage output on the multimeter - it should pulse from 0v to 12v.
If this is done correctly and you do not get an output it is likely that the sensor has stopped working and a replacement is needed.
Check Power
Connect the multimeter to the plug of the sensor:
- Negative on the middle pin - "2".
- Positive on the pin "1".
Turn the key to the on position.
The multimeter should read 12v.
If this is done correctly and the multimeter does not read 12v try:
- Check continuity between the middle pin - "2" and ground.
- Check continuity between the pin "1" and the ignition power.
Dash
If the sensor appears to be working fine, remove the dash and:
- Try checking the continuity of the pin "3" (blue with red stripe) with the same colored wire going into the back of the dash. (Note: there are two of these wires but only one is connected)
- Check the pink wire coming out of the dash (sp1 - speed signal) is not grounded or connected where it shouldn't be.
- Check that the blue/red wire going into the dash is not grounded (my problem).
- Check the voltage between the blue/red wire going into the dash has voltage between it and ground when the key is turned on and the wheels are spinning.
If none of these are the issue it is likely that the dash is faulty.
