User:Saul/3d printer
This page contains my notes on 3d printing.
Contents
Hardware
Nozzles
A good nozzle is required for accurate printing, smaller sizes have neater finishes but take longer, where big nozzles do it quicker but the layers are more visible.
Here are some nozzles people seem to recommend:
- E3D Volcano
- E3D V6
Plastic
PLA, ABS, TPU, TPEG and composite filaments - aliexpress.
OctoPi
You can set the Raspberry Pi up with a 3d printer via OctoPi to allow video streaming and wireless control see here.
The pi would not connect to the network with the wifi stick and the default instructions - I had to change my configuration to the following:
network={
ssid="xxxxxxx"
psk="pass"
proto=RSN
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
pairwise=CCMP TKIP
auth_alg=OPEN
}Software
Slicers
Slicers are programs that convert a model into printable gcode.
Slic3r
Slic3r is a program for imported models and configuring them for the printer and exporting the print-ready gcode.
Fill Settings
My recommended fill settings are:
- Wall layers: 3 (tested to be the apex for strength)
- Top and bottom layers: 5 (I have found the default of 3 not quite enough in most circumstances)
- Fill type: Rectlinear (tested to be the strongest)
- Fill percentage: >30% (anything less is just too weak)
- Fill speed: ?
Cura
Simplify3D
Printrun/Pronterface
Printrun/Pronterface is a good program to connect to the printer and control it from your computer.
Retraction Settings
Retraction is where the extruder runs in reverse to prevent plastic coming out when it is moving, this prevents issues like stringing.
TODO
Without Auto-leveling
Try connecting THE 2 motors in series and adding 2 more on the other sides in series (to support the entire bed) and reduce stepper distance to account for the increased load.
With Auto-leveling
The two steppers must be adjacent to stop the board flexing.
